Length of Amsteel for 8 Continuous Loop
- #1
I am making a continuous loop of 1/8" amsteel. I have watched 3 different videos and all 3 disagree to some degree on the following issues:
1. when you do your brummel locks, do you do the second lock towards the tag end (so that before the bury it looks like this
\/
0
this basically doing it like a daisy chain but then tucking both your tag ends into the rope
OR
do you do the second lock so that the two locks are on opposite sides of the loop and pointing in opposite directions like this
\
(loop\)
where the \ and / are tag ends and imagine (loop) above as being a big circle with top and bottom pieces and one \ inside.
2. when you do your bury, do you put your snake tool directly through the opening made by the bury or do you allow a few strands so that the tag end to be buried goes over and few strands before diving back into the rope? (4 entries into rope instead of just 2)
I think these decisions might be significant and I don't want to simply go off the first couple youtube hits.
Are there any "official" tutorials? I searched Samson's splicing guides and didn't find anything.
Thanks - R
- #3
If you are using amsteel blue, official info. at links
AMSTEEL-BLUE - Samson Rope
Sometimes called the world's strongest rope, AmSteel®-Blue by Samson Rope is a torque-free 12-strand braid that, size-for-size, is as strong as steel but outlasts wire 3:1, making it an excellent wire rope replacement. Now available in bio-based fiber.
samsonrope.com
How to Splice Rope - Samson Rope
Learn how to splice rope. Samson has step-by step videos and directions for how to splice rope and recommends splicing as the preferred rope termination method.
samsonrope.com
Not sure If there is an "endless loop" splice there or not.
- #4
Personally, the site above has directions for whoopie sling. I have a whoopie sling on my sit drag. Once I fabricate my own saddle (still learning how to use the thread puncher), I'll be using a whoopie sling. I may only have it attached at one end and use a biner to connect Brummell locked loop to other end of saddle.
I am risk averse and I really don't want to use rope in a way that may not be officially be "sanctioned" by the manufacturer.
I am not saying that the new fangled amsteel blue friction hitches are bad, I am saying I am going to be conservative when it comes to risking a free fall from a tree.
- #5
Personally, the site above has directions for whoopie sling. I have a whoopie sling on my sit drag. Once I fabricate my own saddle (still learning how to use the thread puncher), I'll be using a whoopie sling. I may only have it attached at one end and use a biner to connect Brummell locked loop to other end of saddle.
I am risk averse and I really don't want to use rope in a way that may not be officially be "sanctioned" by the manufacturer.
I am not saying that the new fangled amsteel blue friction hitches are bad, I am saying I am going to be conservative when it comes to risking a free fall from a tree.
This will be for a fleece saddle, and I'll have a rock climbing harness on. If the fleece or amsteel loop fails, I'll be caught by a metolius harness tethered directly to the tree.
- #6
This will be for a fleece saddle, and I'll have a rock climbing harness on. If the fleece or amsteel loop fails, I'll be caught by a metolius harness tethered directly to the tree.
If you decide to use regular rope, e.g., 7mm to 11mm rope, you can tie a sheet bend onto the fleece ends. Easy to tie, easy to undo and re-tie when you want to. On,y downside is that you can to adjust it's length while putting weight on the fleece saddle.
If you go the endless loop route, I'd like to see how you did it. Curious is all.
- #7
If you decide to use regular rope, e.g., 7mm to 11mm rope, you can tie a sheet bend onto the fleece ends. Easy to tie, easy to undo and re-tie when you want to. On,y downside is that you can to adjust it's length while putting weight on the fleece saddle.
If you go the endless loop route, I'd like to see how you did it. Curious is all.
I'm using the method where you sew a channel in the ends of the fleece, pass a cord or zip tie through the channel, tighten to gather the material and create a cloth "knob" and then girth hitch around the knob. I am girth hitching 1/4" amsteel on the left side with spliced eye. On the right side, I am girth hitching a continuous loop of 1/8" amsteel. That amsteel loop (long) is then tied as a prusik hitch around the 1/4". This creates an adjustable bridge and is similar to the amsteel hitched to amsteel on the new Tethrd saddle.
- #8
Thanks everyone. I made the plunge and followed the linked video. It was the first one I watched prior to posting my question. It seems to work but has only be tested by standing on it from a horizontal bar. It is equivalent to this
\
(loop\)
in my original post
AND
burying through the initial hole, so the bury tag end doesn't jump out of and back into the material, so there are only 2 half openings in the amsteel made. Because of that, it relies totally upon friction (there are not brummel locks really) and I might end up whipping around the buried portion.
I trusted this video because of the recommendation here, it conforms to other videos that seem well produced, and the comments in the video are all positive. I will be backed up with a rock climbing harness though, just in case.
Source: https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads%2Fbest-tutorial-for-amsteel-continuous-loops.25989%2F
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